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I took an evening stroll along the waterfront-promenade, where the river is considerably wider. I sat alone drinking beer, gazing out my fancy large windows as the moon and stars rose.I bought an ice-cream and stood for a while people-watching. The mysterious country plunged into darkness while 24 floors beneath me, an expressway of garish orange lights and buzzing traffic pulsed along.Guided tours are the norm here, so no matter how independently you’ve travelled in the past, it’s important to get into the spirit of the group.Fortunately, the very type of traveller who would even consider coming to this weird, isolated, time-warped country has by proxy already quite a lot in common with you.I saw one old man pedaling a bicycle along a bumpy dirt track but no cars, no people; just uniform rows of one-storey houses.This was my first glimpse into the most secretive, repressive country on Earth.

What a contrast it is to see Dandong’s skyline, in all its shiny, brightly-lit neon glory, totally overwhelming North Korea, basking as it always has in the dark ages. Pay the guards bribe, nobody see.” I retreated to my 24th floor hotel suite overlooking the Yalu and a sweeping twilight view of the North Korea plains.

At first I thought she was a prostitute, being so friendly, but I was wrong – she reminded me just how friendly normal Chinese people actually are when they’re not busy being tourists. Usually they disappear into the forests, not stay in Dandong for long.” “Why? “They don’t want to get caught by the police.” “Are there spies here from North Korea looking for them? Each car tapered along this black emptiness, as if one in a million, crossing through empty space. The train rumbled slowly across the Yalu River bridge into North Korea before stopping at immigration for a couple of hours.

My tour group and I waited patiently as soldiers came aboard to check our documents and more importantly, our belongings.

Speed boats zipped up and down giving tourists the chance to get up close with North Korea, although I heard that locals throw rocks at the boats when they got too close. Dandong is a known hotbed for North Korean spies, seeking out defectors, escapees and human-trafficked sex-workers. Dandong’s lights flashed and dazed in a carnival of colour. Its trailing wake rippled outwards upon the dead black water, reflecting silvery moonlit diamonds.

Meanwhile onshore I noticed some out-of-place, middle-aged gentlemen in black leather jackets, meandering slowly, prowling through crowds of happy families and tourists. 60% of the escapees are women and 80% of them end up as sex slaves for old Chinese men and farmers. I got chatting to a local Chinese lady in her mid-thirties who spoke unusually good English. They look and sound very different to us, you know? Occasionally, a pair of car headlights beamed out from the great gloom beyond like some bright star, slowly crossing a long road from the mountains to the little Korean river-town on the other side.

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Ironic that the Great Wall above, built to keep out invading Koreans during the Ming dynasty, seemed redundant now in the face of the modern-day Korean barrier; a new dynasty hell-bent on repressing itself.

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